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Ruta Castillo

Updated: May 6, 2023

Stage 4: Paredes de Nava -> Valladolid ... 77 km in 4 hours riding time


Skimpy breakfast at the Pension Sofia ... how do those men (railway road crew) work on that?! It’s a cold morning as we set out; gloves & jacket are pulled on, undershirt too.


Very quiet county road as we head south; eventually come across signage indicating we’re on the Ruta Castillo. Sure enough, Montealegre de Campos hosts a massive castle, reportedly built in part at least under the Duke of Albuquerque, a very solitary castle dominating the countryside.


We notice that there’s a small town every 4-8 km apart; some holding as many as two churches, but all somewhat deserted. Not uncommon that no shops, no bars are open during our passing at least; we do see older people walking toward the centre where small trucks are bringing fruit in one, bread in another, and meat in a third. Foodstuffs are sold off the back of the trucks; people bargain, talk, disperse and the trucks race off to the next village.


Approaching Valladolid, lots of vineyards which abruptly break the previous autumn browns of the countryside... I read later that there’s several regions with as many as five varietals surrounding the city.


Get into Valladolid for a 2:00 lunch of surprisingly good burrito de polla which stretches out comfortably on a small plaza with a beer or two. We eventually find a Hotel... a/c issue sorted out ... but nap time ruined!


Bike shop: no hope of getting Brooks-compatible tension bolt being found in this part of Spain, apparently; some discussion with the friendly Brothers Ortega at Matovelo shop before opting for new saddle. Ouch (on several respects)!


Then on to the Post Office (Correos) to mail the Brooks onward to Seville; post lady most helpful.


An early evening beer in the Plaza Mayor before adjourning to the nearby Los Zagales for tapas and a particularly good Rioja.

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